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Built from the Accumark pattern export (sample size M) and its grade rule table. Every lining piece was graded to M, L, XL and 2XL and laid on the cloth with the grain running down the roll, one coat per lay, as Beaver of Bolton will cut it. Lining cloth: East & Silk 22 momme silk satin.
Choose a cloth width, lay and size. The length shown is the cloth one coat consumes, before end losses.
Order quantity adds 10cm of end loss per lay (four lays) and 5% for flaws and handling, rounded up to the next 10cm.
| Piece | Cut | M size (cm) | Grades per size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Left back lining (with CB pleat) | 1, right side up | 83.0 × 27.9 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Right back lining | 1, right side up | 83.0 × 28.2 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Top sleeve lining | 1 pair | 64.1 × 26.2 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Under sleeve lining | 1 pair | 56.0 × 18.1 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Front pocket bag | 1 pair | 33.1 × 21.7 | +0.6 deep |
| Front pocket lining | 1 pair | 32.9 × 21.0 | +0.6 deep |
| Inner top pocket bag | 1 pair | 40.7 × 17.1 | Ungraded |
| Inner lower pocket bag | 1 | 30.9 × 15.3 | Ungraded |
| Inner pocket jet | 2 pairs | 17.3 × 4.1 | Ungraded |
| Lower pocket jet | 1 pair | 14.3 × 4.1 | Ungraded |
| Storm cuff lining | 2 pairs | 4.3 × 30.3 | +0.6 long |
The pattern has no front body lining piece, which matches the tech pack: the front and side panels are lined in the same melton as the shell, so the silk only lines the back, sleeves and pockets.
The COGS sheet allows 1.48m body plus 0.62m pockets, 2.10m per coat. These lays need 1.19m to 1.36m of 140cm cloth per coat including pockets. The 2.10m figure may have been rated on 114cm cloth, on a folded lay, or with a front lining that no longer exists. Ask how it was produced, then correct the sheet.