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Built from the Accumark pattern export (sample size M) and its grade rule table. Every melton piece was graded to S, M, L, XL and 2XL and laid with the grain running down the roll, one coat per lay, as Beaver of Bolton will cut it. Cloth: Abraham Moon Heritage melton, 500gsm, 137cm wide.
Choose a lay and size. The length shown is the cloth one coat consumes, before end losses.
Order quantity adds 10cm of end loss per lay and 5% for flaws and handling, rounded up to the next centimetre.
| Piece | Cut | M size (cm) | Grades per size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Centre front | 1 pair | 86.2 × 34.8 | +1.0 long, +0.9 wide |
| Front facing (self-lining) | 1 pair | 81.4 × 47.2 | +1.0 long, +1.9 wide |
| Side body | 1 pair | 61.9 × 15.6 | +0.7 long, +0.9 wide |
| Centre back | 1 pair | 84.5 × 28.1 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Top sleeve | 1 pair | 62.8 × 26.7 | +1.0 long, +0.5 wide |
| Under sleeve | 1 pair | 57.6 × 18.1 | +1.0 long, +0.6 wide |
| Sleeve cuff | 1 pair | 20.4 × 30.3 | +0.6 wide |
| Top collar | 1 | 16.0 × 29.1 | +0.2 long, +0.7 wide |
| Under collar | 1 pair | 28.4 × 23.8 | +0.7 long, +0.4 wide |
| Collar stand | 1 pair | 7.0 × 37.8 | +0.1 long, +1.5 wide |
| Front pocket welt | 1 pair | 20.4 × 6.4 | Ungraded |
| Front pocket bearer | 1 | 32.1 × 12.6 | Ungraded |
Length runs along the grain. The storm cuff rib and the fusing are cut from their own materials and are not in this lay.
The BoM allows 2.46m of melton per coat. The Small lay here needs 2.20m, which becomes 2.41m once end loss and the flaw allowance are added. That is within 2% of the invoiced figure, an independent check on the method behind both this page and the lining markers.
From Large up, one coat needs more than the BoM allows: about 2.65m for a Large and 2.87m for a 2XL on a one-way lay. Order melton by size rather than at a flat 2.46m per coat.