Barnfield

Enter password to continue

Incorrect password

Barnfield
Technical Specification
The Hampden
Peacoat
Made in England · AW2026
Style Ref BC-HMP-001
Season AW 2026
Revision Rev 001 — Draft
Date Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
Contents
AW2026
Contents
This document contains the complete technical specification for The Hampden. All construction details, materials, measurements and quality standards are contained herein.
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
All measurements are based on a sample size SMALL (38-40" chest)
  1. 01 Technical Drawing Overview
  2. 02 Six-View Render
  3. 03 Bill of Materials
  4. 04 Points of Measure — Front
  5. 05 Points of Measure — Back
  6. 06 Points of Measure — Inside
  7. 07 Points of Measure — Back Details
  8. 08 Collar Details
  9. 09 Outer Cuff Details
  10. 10 Storm Cuff Details
  11. 11 Coat Loop Details
  12. 12 Lining Details
  13. 13 Brand/Pocket Label
  14. 14 Construction Notes
  15. 15 Quality Standards & Revision History
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyrightContents · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
01 — Technical Drawing Overview
Section 01
Technical Drawing Overview
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright01 — Technical Drawing · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
02 — Six-View Render
Section 02
Six-View Render
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright02 — Six-View Render · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm · Abraham Moon Heritage
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
03 — Bill of Materials
Section 03
Bill of Materials
# Component Description Placement Colour / Finish Supplier Ref
01Shell Fabric100% Pure Wool, Heritage quality, 500gsmShell, front & side panel lining, hem facing, collar, cuffsEarth Graphite — U1116/KK84Abraham Moon & Sons · Commodity 51111900
02Lining — Back & Sleeves100% Silk Crêpe de Chine, 70gsm, 140cm wideBack panel, sleeves, pocket bags (ext. & int.), floating bridge stripBlack — Colour No. 52Bennett Silks
03Storm CuffsChunky 2×1 Rib, 96% Organic Combed Cotton / 4% Lycra, 450gsm, 105cm open widthInner sleeve cuff, hiddenBlackDiscovery Knitting · Style #348-OGE-Blk
04Buttons — Face (×6)Natural horn, semi-polished, tonal engraving on edge face, 40L, 4-holeCF double-breasted closure — 3×2 arrangementCol 04Bottonificio Padano S.p.A. · ART17317
05Button — Collar (×1)As above — ART17317Undercollar — secures collar when poppedCol 04Bottonificio Padano S.p.A. · ART17317
06Button — Anchor (×1)As above — ART17317Inside front facingCol 04Bottonificio Padano S.p.A. · ART17317
07Fusible Interlining95gsm fusible interlining, black, 150cm wideCollar, outer cuffs, hem facingBlackFactory supplied (ref: Bernstein & Banleys)
08Shoulder PadsThin 1-ply, 4mmShouldersBlackThe Lining Company · 385-01 (factory supplied to match)
09Sleevehead Roll & CanvasSleevehead roll with canvasSleeveheadBlackThe Lining Company · 058-02 (factory supplied to match)
10Brand Label (×1)Barnfield / Great Britain / Handmade in England — cream ground, navy textRight front facing (as worn), 4cm below internal pocket welt, horizontally centred to welt widthCream / NavyBarnfield standard
11Care Label (×1)Care & composition labelStitched into welt opening — left lower internal pocket (as worn)—Barnfield standard
12Sewing ThreadFactory standard, self-colour throughoutAll seams & topstitchingTo match U1116/KK84 Earth GraphiteFactory supplied
13Coat LoopSelf fabric (Abraham Moon U1116/KK84), interlined — cut 3cm × 7cm, finished 1cm × 5cm visibleCB collar standEarth GraphiteFrom shell fabric allocation
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright03 — Bill of Materials · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
04 — Points of Measure (Front)
Section 04
Points of Measure: Front
RefMeasurementMTol
AAcross front at 18cm from HSP39.0±1cm
BChest width at armhole51.5±1cm
CWaist at 45cm from CB neck50.0±1cm
DHem width57.5±0.5cm
GCollar leaf edge58.0±1cm
HFront length (HPS to hem)81.0±1cm
JFirst button position from HSP34.5±1cm
KButton spacing (vertical)10.0±1cm
LButton spacing (horizontal)10.5±1cm
NArmhole on curve total55.5±1cm
PBicep width at armhole - 90° angle to outside sleeve19.0±0.5cm
QElbow width at 19cm from underarm front seam17.0±1cm
RCuff width - closed14.0±1cm
SStorm cuff width10.0±1cm
TStorm cuff depth6.0±0.5cm
USleeve length (Sleeve head to cuff)67.0±1cm
ZHip pocket position - high shoulder seam to front top edge of pocket45.5±1cm
A1Hip pocket welt width1.5±1cm
B1Hip pocket welt length18.0±1cm
H1Hem top stitch2.5±1cm
I1Lower outer cuff depth4.0±0.5cm
J1Upper outer cuff depth9.0±0.5cm
N1Lapel depth9.0±0.5cm

All measurements taken on the flat. Seam allowances not included in POM.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright04 — POM Front · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
05 — Points of Measure (Back)
Section 05
Points of Measure - Back
RefMeasurementMTol
ICB length - CB neck to hem79.0±1cm
OArmhole on curve total55.5±1cm
VSleeve length under arm44.5±1cm
WBack neck on curve shoulder seam to shoulder seam20.0±0.5cm
XAcross shoulder straight46.0±1cm
YAcross back 15cm from CB neck44.0±1cm

All measurements taken on the flat. Seam allowances not included in POM.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright05 — POM Back · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
06 — Points of Measure (Inside)
Section 06
Points of Measure- Inside
RefMeasurementMTol
J1Bottom hem top stitch2.5cm±0.5cm
K1Coat loop width6.0±0.5cm
L1Coat loop depth1.0±0.5cm
O1Right inside pocket width15.0±0.5cm
P1Right inside pocket welt depth1.0±0.5cm
Q1Left top inside pocket width15.0±1cm
R1Left top inside pocket welt depth1.0±1cm
S1Left bottom inside pocket width13.5±1cm
T1Left bottom inside pocket welt depth1.0±1cm
U1Right inside pocket bag depth20.0±1cm
V1Left top inside pocket bag depth20.0±1cm
W1Left bottom inside pocket bag depth15.0±1cm

All measurements taken on the flat. Seam allowances not included in POM.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright06 — POM Inside · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
07 — Points of Measure (Back Details)
Section 07
Points of Measure - Back Details
RefMeasurementMTol
MShoulder seam13.5±0.5cm
G1Back vent length19.0±0.5cm

All measurements taken on the flat. Seam allowances not included in POM.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright07 — POM Back Detail · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
08 — Points of Measure (Collar Details)
Section 08
Collar Details
RefMeasurementMTol
M1Distance between points on collar profile stitch6.0±0.5cm
ECB collar stand depth3.0±0.5cm
FCollar depth at CB in stand12.0±0.5cm

All measurements taken on the flat. Seam allowances not included in POM.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright08 — POM Collar Detail · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
09 — Points of Measure (Outer Cuff Details)
Section 09
Outer Cuff Details
NOTE 1Top and bottom points must align perfectly with sleeve seam
NOTE 2Top stitch runs through both layers to ensure cuff facing stays in place as the wearer pushes their hand through.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright09 — POM Outer Cuff · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
10 — Storm Cuff Details
Section 10
Storm Cuff Details
NOTE 1: Red HighlightTop stitch runs through both layers to ensure cuff facing stays in place as the wearer pushes their hand through.
NOTE 2: Green HighlightLining bridge attaches to storm cuff.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright10 — Storm Cuff Details · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
11 — Coat Loop Details
Section 11
Coat Loop Details
NOTE 1Coat loop is constructed with self fabric.
NOTE 21. Two parallel slits cut in the collar stand
2. Edges turned under and either slip-stitched or machine-stitched down as bound openings
3. The fabric strip threaded through both openings to form the loop
4. Each end bar-tacked flat to the underside of the collar stand
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright11 — Coat Loop Details · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
12 — Lining Details
Section 12
Lining Details
NOTE 1: Front/Side PanelsThe front and side panels are lined with the same melton wool as the outer.

There is no ease applied to the lining where it connects with the outer melton that folds up at the hem.

All seam allowances must be reduced as much as possible to reduce bulk.

They must also be cut perfectly straight as they might show when the melton is pressed.
NOTE 2: Back panelThe back panel is lined with cupro/satin and includes ease, folding up as usual to form a normal jacket hem.

Please take particular care with the lining at the vent. This must be finished perfectly to ensure the vent sits flat at all times.

Back silk lining with CB vertical pleat for ease and horizontal hem pleat.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright12 — Lining Details · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
13 — Brand Label Details
Section 13
Brand/Pocket Label Details
NOTE 1: PlacementBrand label is placed 4cm below the welt pocket of the right side (single) inside pocket and horizontally central to the pocket welt.

There is no ease applied to the lining where it connects with the outer melton that folds up at the hem.

NOTE 2: StitchLabel is attached to the coat at each corner only. It is not stitched down around the entire edge.

Please take particular care with the lining at the vent. This must be finished perfectly to ensure the vent sits flat at all times.

Back silk lining with CB vertical pleat for ease and horizontal hem pleat.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright13 — Brand Label Details · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
14 — Construction Notes
Section 14
Construction Notes
FitSlim/Tailored. Sample size SMALL.
Seam Allowance1.5cm throughout unless stated.
TopstitchSelf-colour, single needle lockstitch, 5mm. Spacing TBC at toile.
ClosureCF button closure. 40L natural horn.
LiningFront and side panels - self. Back and sleeves - Heavy Crepe de Chene (70gsm) silk.
CollarTBC — collar construction and interlining to be specified.
HemTBC — hem finish to be agreed at toile stage.
PocketsTBC — pocket placement, construction and hardware to be specified.
LABELSBrand label vorner stitched only below right side single inside pocket. Care label stitched inside lower left inside pocket.
NoteThis is a draft document. All fields marked TBC require completion before sampling.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright14 — Construction Notes · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd
Company
Barnfield Customs Ltd
Style
The Hampden Peacoat
File
BC-HMP-001.PDF
Fabric
100% Wool — 500gsm · Abraham Moon Heritage
Date
Rev 006 — 03.06.2026
Version
Rev 001 — Draft
Section
15 — Quality Standards & Revision History
Section 16
Quality
Standards
Pre-Production Checks
#CheckStandard
1Shell fabric colourMatch Abraham Moon U1116/KK84 Earth Graphite
2Lining fabricBennett Silks CDC Colour No. 52 — confirm against reference
3Button confirmationBottonificio Padano ART17317, Col 04 — confirm sample before bulk
4Interlining weight95gsm fusible — confirm match to sample (ref: Bernstein & Banleys)
5Shoulder pads4mm, 1-ply — confirm match to The Lining Company 385-01
6Sample size labelCorrect label from M to S before sampling
Construction Checks
#CheckStandard
7Profile stitch alignmentCentred exactly on CB seam, mirrored perfectly — critical
8Profile stitch point spacing60mm point-to-point (M1)
9Cuff taper9cm outer (aligns with outer sleeve seam) to 4cm inner (aligns with inner sleeve seam)
10Cuff attachmentStitched through to sleeve — must not move when hand passes through storm cuff
11Internal pocket layoutAsymmetric — 1 pocket right, 2 pockets left (as worn). Do NOT mirror.
12Internal pocket bartacksReinforcing bartacks at both vertical ends of all 3 welt openings
13Brand label attachment4 hand stitches at 45° at each corner only — no edge stitching
14Care label sequenceMust be attached before left lower pocket bag is closed
15Topstitch — cuffs/collar/lapel5mm single needle lockstitch, self-colour
16Topstitch — hem25mm single needle lockstitch, self-colour
16aTopstitch — collar stand1mm edge-stitch, self-colour, ±0.5mm — critical precision point
17Topstitch — all other seamsNone — intentional
18Seam allowances1.5cm throughout unless stated
Final Inspection Checks
#CheckStandard
18aCoat loop presence & positionCB collar stand, vertically and horizontally centred
18bCoat loop dimensions1cm wide × 5cm visible. Ends bartacked. Edges stitched, not inverted.
19aButton count8 total: 6 CF face, 1 undercollar, 1 anchor
19bButton qualityCheck all buttons for imperfections - discard if any exist
20Double-breasted arrangement3×2 — confirm symmetry of button placement
21External pocket welt dimensions12mm wide × 175mm long
22Internal pocket welt dimensionsRight: 10mm × 150mm. Left top: 10mm × 150mm. Left bottom: 10mm × 135mm. Gap: 20mm.
23Lining coverageFront/side panels: self wool. Back/sleeves: Bennett CDC. No mix-up.
24Storm cuff bridgeFloating — sleeve lining must not be directly attached to rib cuff
25Hem topstitch25mm — confirm not 5mm
26Brand labelCorner stitch only - right side, below internal welt pocket.
26PressingNo internal seams visible on outside after pressing.
Revision History
RevDateDescriptionBy
001TBCInitial draft — full spec populated from structured interviewBarnfield
This checklist is a working document. Items may be added prior to and during sampling.
© This design is exclusive and protected by copyright15 — Quality Standards · BC-HMP-001 · Barnfield Customs Ltd